Perfect DD Cream SPF 20

Croda Inc

This Daily Defence Cream, or DD Cream, protects against harmful light wavelengths whilst also offering a uniform tint on the skin. This is achieved through the inclusion of Solaveil™ XT40W which provides protection against UVA, UVB and High-Energy Visible light damage as well as protection against the free radicals generated. By combining this with Venuceane™, which protects against cellular damage by InfraRed and free radicals, you can achieve broad spectrum protection from the sun and its photo-ageing effects.

Phase
Product
INCI Name
Supplier
Volume
A

Crodamol™ GTCC

Caprylic/Capric Triglycerid

Croda

13.00

Span™ 20

Sorbitan Laurate

Croda

3.04

Crodamol™ ISIS

Isostearyl Isostearate

Croda

3.00

Crodamol™ SSA

Decyl Isostearate (and) Isostearyl Isostearate

Croda

3.00

NatraGem™ E145

Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate/Succinate (and) Aqu

Croda

2.46

B

Water

Aqua

To 100

Pricerine™ 9091

Glycerin

Croda

3.00

Veegum Ultra

Magnesium Aluminum Silicate

Lake Chemicals and Minerals

1.00

Keltrol CG SFT

Xanthan Gum

CP Kelco

0.50

Solaveil™ XT-40W

Titanium Dioxide (and) Aqua (and) Polyglyceryl-2 Caprate (and) Sucrose Stearate (and) Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil (and) Stearic Acid (and) Alumina (and) Glyceryl Caprylate (and) Squalane

Croda

15.00

C

NHS-C339001-10

Iron Oxide (and) CI77492

Miyoshi

0.96

NHS-C338001-10

Iron Oxide (and) CI77491

Miyoshi

0.24

NHS-C337001-10

Iron Oxide (and) CI77499

Miyoshi

0.06

D

Purac HiPure 90

Lactic Acid

Purac

qs

E

Venuceane™

Thermus Thermophilus Ferment (and) Glycerin

Sederma

3.00

Preparation:

Disperse the Veegum Ultra and Keltrol CG SFT in Pricerine 9091 and add water with stirring. Once fully hydrated add the Solaveil™ XT-40W with stirring. Combine the Phase A ingredients with stirring. Pre-blend Phase C with a pestle and mortar and add to Phase A with stirring until homogenous. Homogenise the oil phase for three minutes to disperse the pigments fully. Add Phase A to Phase B with stirring until homogenous. Homogenise for a further three minutes. Adjust the pH with lactic acid to below 4.5 whilst stirring and add the preservative Euxyl K172. Add the Venuceane and mix until homogenous.

Notes:

Appearance: Medium tan cream pH: 5.55 Viscosity: 6,520 cP +/- 10% (Spindle 3, 10 rpm, 1 minute, ambient, Brookfield DV-I+) Stability: 3 months at 45°C, 40°C, 5°C and room temperature. 1 month at -5/40°C In vivo SPF: 23 (ISO 24444:2010, 5 subjects, AMA Laboratories, USA), Label SPF 20 In vitro critical wavelength (FDA 2011 protocol, Croda): 380 nm In vitro UVAPF (COLIPA 2011 on no pigments formulation): 9, equivalent to PA+++ Ratio SPF/UVAPF: 2.55

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