Inolex is highlighting the ability of its ProCondition 22 classic ingredient to enable formulators to create quat-free products for skin and hair.
First launched in 2007, ProCondition 22 (INCI: Brassicamidopropyl Dimethylamine) is a replacement for quaternary ammonium compounds (quats) such as Behentrimonium Chloride (BTAC), Cetrimonium Chloride (CTAC), and for Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine (SAPDMA).
Readily biodegradable and non-irritating to skin and eyes, ProCondition 22 creates lamellar gel networks for conditioning, emulsification, and skin moisturization; and provides multi-benefit technology with a non-permanent cationic charge.
Lamellar liquid crystals create flexible, protective layers that mimic the natural lamellar structure of skin and hair.
These crystals provide a soft, powdery, non-greasy feel on skin and hair. In hair care formulas, they also provide weightless conditioning.
ProCondition 22 restores damaged hair by smoothing lifted cuticles on hair fibres; the hair shaft is sealed and friction between hair strands is reduced.
In tests on Chinese hair, European brown hair and multiethnic curly (3A) hair, ProCondition 22 has comparable wet combability to BTAC in a natural conditioning formula. It provides frizz control and gives hair a smooth and overall healthy appearance.
An Inolex spokesman said BTAC, CTAC, and SAPDMA are under pressure because they can cause skin irritation or allergic reactions in sensitive individuals.
“They may be harmful to aquatic life and contribute to water pollution. All three have the potential for buildup on hair and skin, leading to dullness or residue. In formulations, these materials can destabilize certain cosmetic formulations, affecting product efficacy,” he added.
Recommended use levels include shampoos (0.5%), rinse-off conditioners (1.0-5.0%) and leave-on products (0.5-3.0%).
In skin care formulas, ProCondition 22 provides immediate moisture replenishment at 15 minutes and clinically proven moisturization that lasts 24 hours.
Recommended use levels in skin care emulsions range from 0.2-5.0%, and 0.5% in cleansers and body washes.
