Gattefossé, the French-heritage ingredient supplier for the beauty and health industries, is celebrating 30 years of sensory expertise.
Since 1996, the company has developed a structured approach to understand and measure sensory perceptions, supporting the creation of high-performance formulations from the very design of its ingredients.
From the creation of its internal sensory panel, Gattefossé implemented rigorous methodologies to measure, analyze, and interpret the sensory properties of its formulations.
Over time, this work has led to a unique database linking hundreds of formulas with detailed sensory profiles, now used both for internal product development and market benchmarking.
“Our expertise in lipid chemistry allows us to closely connect ingredient properties with the sensations they deliver. The challenge is to transform perception into objective, measurable data, guiding our developments and providing concrete insights for our clients,” said Vincent Hubiche, Global Applications Manager Personal Care.
Today, this work relies on an internal panel of 17 trained judges in France, compared to nine at its inception.
Drawn from the cosmetic and pharmaceutical sectors, these judges take part in two sensory evaluation sessions per week.
Conducted in short time slots, each session allows multiple formulas to be assessed, including products developments, customers projects, comparative tests, and market products.
The panel is renewed in waves, roughly every five years, with new members trained as needed to maintain enough skilled judges and ensure statistically reliable results.
Continuity is also supported by experienced members, including one person who has been with the panel since the beginning.
Sensory analysis is closely linked to physico-chemical properties of formulations. Texture on application, spreadability, absorption, and residual film are all measured to better understand the relationship between a formula’s structure and how it is perceived.
This approach enables precise system adjustments and the design of differentiated textures that meet consumer expectations.
Sensory performance plays a key role in first impressions, product usage, and long-term loyalty.
Sensory analysis supports Gattefossé's innovation strategy, fostering collaboration between R&D chemists and formulators to create distinctive textures with proven effectiveness.
It also supports the group's international expansion, including the recent opening of a dedicated space in its Technical Center of Excellence in China.
“China is composed of highly knowledgeable consumers with very high expectations regarding texture and skin feel,” said Paula Lennon, Group Director Personal Care, Gattefossé.
“With our new sensory analysis facility in Shanghai, our French and Chinese experts will collaborate to design innovative ingredients tailored to this market,” she added.
More than an anniversary, these 30 years reaffirm Gattefossé’s vision: combining chemistry, formulation expertise and advanced characterization to create high value ingredients with a distinctive and measurable sensory signature, delivering a unique customer experience.
